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Umbria is in the centre of Italy’s boot and known by Italians as ‘The green heart of Italy’- a reference to its unsurpassably rich and fertile soil. It is a landscape of rich colours; ochre hilltop towns, silver olive groves, deep red earth and rose-coloured sunsets. Often overlooked by its more glamorous neighbour Tuscany, its people are authentic and welcoming, and the many medieval towns and villages are abuzz with local families keeping the old traditions alive in this rural landscape.
Enjoy La Dolcè Vita with a caffé whilst you indulge in a spot of people-watching; you might see a Nonna with her basket filled with fresh, local produce from the markets, disappearing down a cool side alley to prepare lunch for her family, and children playing at the steps of centuries old fountains, gelatos in hand. These picturesque places, many of which predate the Romans, not only offer up artistic treasures of the Renaissance but also open and generous hospitality.
The fertile soils in Umbria provide an incredible quality and range of produce – local markets overflow year-round with an abundance of fruit and vegetables. Bundles of fresh herbs, perfectly sweet grapes and tomatoes in a rainbow of colours. Food in Umbria is rustic in the best possible way – delicious, hearty and simple, letting the quality of the ingredients speak for themselves.
Wine is hugely important here particularly around Montepulciano. Black truffle farms, saffron harvests and olive oil production are the other most popular harvest, but pork is the main staple of the Umbrian diet. Specialist butchers preserve time old methods of curing and a platter of delicious meats and cheeses is a main stay of the local restaurants. Pici and stringozzi are the main pastas of the region, a thick spaghetti type pasta made by hand, often served with a rich sauce or ragu made from wild boar.
Umbria is just as scenic and beautiful as its neighbour, Tuscany, but far less touristy, meaning that all the popular sight-seeing spots tend to be much quieter, even in the height of the summer.
Umbria’s answer to Lake Como is the picturesque Lago Trasimeno, located in the very middle of the ‘leg’ of Italy’s boot. The lake is around 128km² on its surface, and with three islands within it (one of which is privately owned), its surrounded by rolling hills, woodlands, olive groves and vineyards. You can hike, e-bike, and even kayak on the lake, and there are regular boat trips across to the islands too that are well worth doing. Lake Trasimeno makes for a wonderful day out, and you’re spoilt for choice of restaurants to refuel at with stunning views over the water.
A trip to Umbria isn’t complete without a wine tasting, and there are so many to choose from! Book a table for lunch and spend some time touring the vineyards, sampling the wonderful varieties of wines available. You could almost close your eyes and pick any one of the incredibly pretty Umbrian hilltop towns as a spot for lunch – good food comes as standard here!
If you fancy a spot of retail therapy, Umbria is well known for its traditional linens and cashmere – many of the family-run producers have been in the industry for several generations. Visit one of the many regional markets and take home some delicious pecorino cheese to last you until the end of Autumn.
Nights in Italy tend to be relaxed and easy going for the most part. Head for dinner in the late evening for the best ambience, as the locals tend to eat much later around 9 – 10pm when it’s a little cooler in the summer months.
Unlike popular tourist destinations, Umbria is open year-round and is wonderful in all seasons... Spring is particularly pretty, with wildflowers carpeting the landscape and joyful Easter celebrations. Summer can be hot, but manageably so, offering wonderful opportunities for eating outside late into the evening. Being a less well-known region, the summer holiday crush is not apparent here. Winters are usually crisp and clear, forest walks ending at a long lunch in one the local restaurants.
But perhaps autumn is the most important for the people that live here. Flaming vineyards and rolling mists signal the harvests. Still mild enough in early autumn to eat outside during the day and be grateful for a swimming pool with evenings cool enough to cosy up fireside.
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