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Puglia, or ‘Apulia’ as it is also known, is a region in southern Italy that forms the heel of Italy’s boot. It is well known for its hilltop towns, fertile farmland, whitewashed houses, and stunning Mediterranean coastline that stretches on for hundreds of miles.
Puglia has a rich farming heritage and was historically one of the poorer regions in Italy, often snubbed by wealthier Italians from the south. Its agricultural roots have led to a great sense of self-sufficiency among the Pugliese people, who are fiercely proud of their food, landscape and culture. Tourism has only really begun to blossom here in the last decade or so, as Puglia was initially largely unexplored by tourists who flock to other better-known parts of Italy such as Florence and Rome. Recently though, there’s been a resurgence with visitor numbers increasing year on year and quite rightly so – this area has so much to offer, and its people can’t wait to share its beauty with you too.
The region has around 800km of coastline bordering two Mediterranean seas, which provides visitors with such a vast range of beaches and coastal beauty. From the azure waters of the Ionian to the soft golden sands of the Adriatic coast, beaches don’t get better than this. In typical Italian fashion, it’s a place that favours a slower pace of life, long lunches in the sun and has family at its heart.
Being rich in fertile flatlands, Puglia is one of Italy’s biggest contributors when it comes to food production. It is known affectionately as the ‘breadbasket of Italy’, as its rich soil and hot climate provides the perfect growing conditions for durum wheat used in both pasta and bread. Cucina povera, or ‘poor cuisine’ most certainly does not mean lacking in flavour or variety – the Pugliese used innovative ways to make simple, seasonal ingredients taste utterly delicious.
Puglia also produces roughly 40% of the country’s olive oil, with an estimated 60 million olive trees supplying this harvest. Also termed ‘liquid gold’ by many, the olive oil produced here is of the highest quality, extra virgin and used as both the first and last ingredients in almost every dish.
Orecchiette pasta is an Apulian classic. This pasta is formed into round, slightly concave circles, the term directly translating to ‘little ears’ given its shape. The increased surface area makes it the perfect pasta for soaking up creamier sauces. In the back alleys of Bari’s Old Town you’ll see the nonnas preparing orecchiette by hand – be sure to stock up on some before you head home as they freeze well!
Puglia is also incredibly well known for its dairy cheese, and it's an indispensable ingredient in Puglian recipes. Burrata, made from whole cow’s milk and cream, is a staple in the area, and it will be the best you’ve ever tasted. Cacioricotta is another firm favourite – usually eaten fresh as an antipasto or melted on top of a regional pasta dish.
There is so much to explore in Puglia, and no two days need be the same. Be sure to make time to simply enjoy your immediate surroundings, soaking up the sun with a good book, before slipping into the pool to cool off. Puglia is the epitome of that beautiful Italian phrase, ‘il dolce far niente’ – “the sweetness of doing nothing”.
Locals indulge in afternoon siestas, so most shops are open in the morning then again in the late afternoon, but not in between. Plan your sight-seeing for the first half of the day and save your beach time for the afternoon. We’d highly recommend an after-beach pick me up of sweet, creamy gelato to tide you over until supper, which is usually eaten late, typically after 9pm, in true Mediterranean style.
On the days when you’re ready to explore, head to Lecce, Ostuni or Monopoli and wander around the narrow, cobbled streets than open up into wide piazzas. There are wonderful little boutiques, cafes and restaurants lining the squares. Bring home a piece of the iconic ‘ceramiche Pugliesi’, with the distinctive ‘smamriato’ splattered decoration in green – typical of Salento potters. Lecce is often referred to as the ‘Florence of the South’, with is rich history and ornate Baroque architecture. While away an afternoon in the main piazza here over an espresso and sweet pasticciotto.
Perhaps the most iconic landmark in Puglia are the Trulli, dotted around the farmland. These stone-built dwellings, round with conical roofs, date back to the Middle Ages, when they were built as homes for the peasant farmers. The best place to see them is the UNESCO heritage site of Alberobello in the Valle d’Itria.
Puglia is known for its blissfully slow, Mediterranean pace of life, so you won’t find any high-octane nightlife here. Head to Ostuni or Lecce for supper, before enjoying an alfresco drink in the beautiful, cobbled piazzas, chatting with the locals late into the evening.
Alternatively, arrange for an incredible Italian chef to come to you – they’ll cook up a storm whilst you relax and lean into the gentle Italian way of life. If you wanted a bit more of a buzz, Bari, being the capital of the region, is the place to head to.
Puglia can be one of the warmest and driest regions in Italy, so it’s perfect for sun-seekers, with summer temperatures remaining in the mid to high 30°C.
You’re never far from the coast in Puglia so even if temperatures are soaring you can so easily cool off with a dip in the sea. If sight-seeing if your thing, you might want to consider visiting in the shoulder months of May, June and September, as slightly cooler conditions make hiking and exploring a bit more comfortable, and the crowds from the peak months will have reduced considerably too. The late Autumn (October/November) can be glorious – it is chilly, but sunshine still abounds.
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