Often overlooked, the Greek mainland has so much to offer once you step off the well-trodden tourist routes – think authentic, family-run tavernas and coastlines full of hidden beaches.
The land here is incredibly verdant and fertile, and so most of the produce you’ll find in shops and restaurants will be locally grown, foraged and sourced from smallholdings. The fish comes straight off the colourful fishing boats fresh from the morning’s catch. The traditional diet of the Maniots is simple, local, rustic and delicious, using fragrant herbs such as sage and rosemary. The staple dishes are passed down through generations, and we’d highly recommend ignoring the menus and speaking directly with the server or better the owner/chef themselves to ask what they’d recommend.
Meat is an integral part of the diet of a Maniot, and it comes mainly in the form of pork and boar. You must try the syglino – pork smoked over wood with aromatic herbs before being salted and boiled with wine, oranges and spices, then preserved in large clay pots. Chorta, locally foraged wild greens, are also a regular feature throughout Greece, but in the Peloponnese they are cooked with a twist. Instead of boiling them, here they are fried in olive oil with garlic, onion and tomatoes, then finished with fresh herbs such as parsley and dill. Seafood here is divine – try tsiladia, salted cod cooked in a delicious tomato-based sauce with raisins and lashings of olive oil.
If you have a sweet tooth, you’re in for a real treat in this part of Greece. Diples are so delicious, made from a light and airy dough rolled out into long strips then folded and fried, before being dipped in a honey syrup and coated in walnuts. Another must-try is galatopita, a sweet milk custard pie made with fresh milk, semolina, sugar, eggs and a little butter. It's often served with a little honey and cinnamon, and mainly enjoyed as part of Greek Easter festivities.
This is real Greece in its most authentic form, and the vibe here is laid back and low key. Days are spent exploring the waterfront villages like beautiful Kardamili, perhaps stopping for a coffee in the sunshine whilst watching the locals play each other at ‘Tavli’, a boardgame similar to backgammon.
If you’re the more active type, hiking in this region is glorious – the Viros Gorge route that starts in the foothills of the Taygetos and finishes at Kardamili was originally used to connect ancient Sparta to Kardamili port. It's not for the faint-hearted at 11km long and 600m elevation, but it’s totally worth it for the spectacular views it affords.
If you fancy a quick swim before lunch you are spoilt for choice. Kalamitsi bay is a short walk from Kardamili village, and is a beautiful, sheltered bay with white pebbles and turquoise shallow waters. Once you’ve refuelled at one of the many family-run tavernas in the area, why not spend the afternoon exploring the quaint museums, fortress ruins and thousand-year-old churches to fully immerse yourself in the rich history of the region. If you want to just simply relax, then chose from any number of the beautiful hidden coves and beaches and set up camp there for the day – you won’t be disappointed.
In the summer months the nights are perfectly warm, and there’s often Greek dancing to be found at the local tavernas. We recommend settling in for the evening at your favourite taverna – chose a table looking over the sea and watch sunlight turn to moonlight, reflecting off the water. The sunsets here are to die for – the richest reds, oranges and yellows.
This part of Greece is a truly unspoilt part of the mainland. Think quaint fishing villages, rugged mountains and stunning cliffs. This region covers the peninsula of the Southern Peloponnese, and has been untouched by mass tourism, making it the perfect destination for those wanting an authentic Greek experience. Separated from the rest of the mainland by the imposing Taygetos mountains, the Mani Peninsula is an intriguing mix of stark contrasts – crystal clear Mediterranean seas with pebbly coves set against dramatic, snow-capped mountains in the distance. This is the very best of Greece off the beaten track – the perfect place to relax and unwind.
With a turbulent history of protecting their ancestral lands, the Maniots as they are known, are fiercely loyal, family-oriented and are said to be descendants of the ancient Spartans. The landscape is dotted with distinctive tower houses that are unique to the region, originally built as fortified homes for families in the 18th and 19th centuries to protect them from enemies. These magnificent watchtowers were perfectly positioned for surveillance and to deter attackers and defend their settlements.
With both mountainous regions and ample beaches, ancient olive groves and craggy rock, wooded foothills and sunbathed harbour villages – this part of mainland Greece is so magical that it must be seen to be believed.
If you can, Autumn is one of our favourite times of year to visit the Mani Peninsula. The swimming is warmer, the air clearer and there are far fewer tourists. Spring can also be beautiful, with colourful wildflowers, local festivals and Greek Easter celebrations. The temperatures in the Spring and Autumn make for much more manageable hiking conditions too.
Of course, late June, July and August are the peak summer weeks, and temperatures tend to sit in the low 30s during these months. The atmosphere is amazing at this time of year, with the summer in full swing.
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